Verification of brushed micro FPV build parts

[shad0w77]

Hi all,

Bought a Hubsan X4 a couple months back to learn to fly/repair/solder and am ready to take the plunge into building my own brushed micro.

With the following parts, does anyone see any issues w/ compatibility or anything else?

Pololu 5V Step-Up Voltage Regulator
Picnic Quad 100mm Carbon Birch frame w/ HD 8.5mm motor mounts
Picnic Quad FPV accessory plates
Lumenier SM-600 Super Mini - 600TVL Wide Angle Camera - powered by regulator
Hubsan H107D motors and FC board
5.8 GHZ AVTX FOR FATSHARK - powered by regulator
Single 1s 500mah+ batteries

Yes I know a Cleanflight brushed board, Spektrum compatible Tx, and a set of FPV goggles is better than this... but I have the board, motors, and Tx for the 107D already. So, I wanted to start cheap. If the build is cheap, repairing when I crash is also cheap! ;-)

The camera mentioned has a max input voltage of 5V and that's obviously the output of the regulator. You think being that close to the camera's max voltage would cause an issue? Maybe a silicone diode is required?

Thanks in advance all.

 

[Mike H.]

Maximum input voltage is just that, Maximum....Im sure its a minimum of 3.7v which the board can support..The problem is, something so small with any additional weight (which is already super heavy stock) will certainly kill any sort of decent flight times and you will burn up motors left and right.

Ive already built a hubsan x4 hybrid using the efficiency x100 frame but with no camera for a loss of maybe 5 grams...If anything i would consider one of those micro fpv kits that only weigh like 3 or 4 grams in total and, this will bring you back to a stock weight but with a better fpv set up

 

[Jackson]

That camera looks like this one, but way more expensive.

http://www.banggood.com/600TVL-8_0M...-Wide-Anlge-Lens-Camera-PALNTSC-p-984345.html

 

[shad0w77]

Mike - so, if I understand what u r saying... the camera, TX, regulator, and picnic quad frame I mentioned weigh more than the 107D frame, TX, and camera? Do you know the weight of those Hubsan parts? Just to be clear, I'm not adding on to the Hubsan, I'm cannibalizing it onto a new frame...

I should also mention I'm removing the connector, microphone, and audio wire from the camera.


Jackson - You are right, but I'd rather deal w/ a US company... I'm willing to pay more for that.

 

[Mike H.]

Im unsure of this regulator you say you need plus possibly a heavier camera...If you simply want to transplant the stock hubsan parts onto a different frame then i see no issues with that...you should lose some weight with the x frame and the right motor holders. I ended up 5.6g less with the short motor holders which cut all of my motor wires which i later found out..i dont recommend them at all...use the regular non protected motor holders for even less weight and no worries of cutting motor wires when installing.

 

[Mike H.]

If you want to see a non camera hubsan/x100 build, i did one not long ago. http://quadcopterforum.com/threads/new-school-toy-hybrid-build.6131/

 

[shad0w77]

Im unsure of this regulator you say you need plus possibly a heavier camera...If you simply want to transplant the stock hubsan parts onto a different frame then i see no issues with that...you should lose some weight with the x frame and the right motor holders.

well, from what I'm reading, I'm told that I need a regulator to avoid noise from the motors when throttling up... All the parts seem to work off a 1s lipo... but just trying to avoid the noise and also having to run a second battery

i'll read through your post as well

Removing the connector, microphone, and audio wire from the camera as well as keeping the wires as short as possible should shave some weight off that 3g advertised weight. Might even get it under 2 grams total.

But it sounds like overall, I'm good to go.

 

[Mike H.]

Keep us posted.

 

[GJH105775]

Im unsure of this regulator you say you need plus possibly a heavier camera...If you simply want to transplant the stock hubsan parts onto a different frame then i see no issues with that...you should lose some weight with the x frame and the right motor holders. I ended up 5.6g less with the short motor holders which cut all of my motor wires which i later found out..i dont recommend them at all...use the regular non protected motor holders for even less weight and no worries of cutting motor wires when installing.

Could use a zener diode and non-linear resistor to act as a lightweight voltage regulator, though I don't know of any zener diodes that small.

 

[Jackson]

well, from what I'm reading, I'm told that I need a regulator to avoid noise from the motors when throttling up... All the parts seem to work off a 1s lipo... but just trying to avoid the noise and also having to run a second battery

Actually running off a 1S 3.7V lipo for the equipment you chose necessitates the use of a step up regulator.

There are options available for the nano class meant to run off a 1S.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/ultra-micro-fpv-camera-and-video-transmitter-spmva1100

Specifications

• Input power: 3.3–4.2V (1S supply)

• Power consumption: 300mA @ 3.7V (1S)

 

[shad0w77]

Actually running off a 1S 3.7V lipo for the equipment you chose necessitates the use of a step up regulator.

Why do you say that? The camera runs off 3.6-5V and the Tx runs off of 3.5-5V.... a 1s lipo starts at 4.2V and drops to ~3.7, no?

 

[Mike H.]

As the hubsan is already set up with fpv and whatever step ups or downs needed to use it, im still lost as to why you need anything but swapping everything over to a frame.

Im assuming you want a better camera but i dont see why it cant be attached to the stock board like it already is...The flight board already has a whatever is needed to operate a camera using a 1s lipo.

 

[shad0w77]

As the hubsan is already set up with fpv and whatever step ups or downs needed to use it, im still lost as to why you need anything but swapping everything over to a frame.

Im assuming you want a better camera but i dont see why it cant be attached to the stock board like it already is...The flight board already has a whatever is needed to operate a camera using a 1s lipo.

The H107D video Tx and camera are all one piece. I've only seen people take the 107C HD board (if they get lucky and find one w/ video out.. there are like 3 versions) and camera and use that to replace H107D camera/board. In addition to this, they also need to add a vTx for FPV. So to have HD FPV in 107D you need the right 107C HD board/camera and add on an additional vTx. Sounds like a waste, some extra weight, and not very expandable going forward.

My reasons are...

1) As you mentioned, better camera... but with less parts (107C HD video board, camera, and vTx vs camera and vTx)
2) Longer and stronger video transmission range
3) More flexible antenna options
4) Adjustable vTx mw -- battery life vs range
5) Possibly shave a few grams of weight
6) Do a first build for experience w/ cheap parts that are already on hand and don't need to purchase
7) Ability to swap out just the FC board for another Cleanflight brushed option as a phase 2 FPV build.. or even make the whole FPV portion modular to go from frame to frame
8) Maybe remove FPV from this setup at some point and run just a Cleanflight board for crazy acro and tune-ability
9) Why not?

It just gives me sooo many options going forward if you look at it like a phased learning process/build log.

 

[Jackson]

a 1s lipo starts at 4.2V and drops to ~3.7, no?

Maybe it starts @ 4.2 have you metered it? . When you kick the quad reasonably hard the battery voltage will sag while under load.

As an example here's some batteries being pulsed on 10s/off 10s.

Notice the major sag right from the start as 4.2V drops down to < 3.3V, under load.

But it matters not as you've chosen for the added expense (and current draw) of the step up regulator.

.. or even make the whole FPV portion modular to go from frame to frame

A good idea. My choice.

Weight: 4.5 g (with case)

 

[shad0w77]

Notice the major sag right from the start as 4.2V drops down to < 3.3V, under load.


A good idea. My choice.

Whoh.. that's some good battery info right there. Yup, guess I do NEED the regulator.

Yeah, I've seen that camera but there are a few drawbacks compared to the setup I listed...

- 330 lines vs 600
- 90 degree FOV compared to 120
- Cant change to a Spironet antenna if I wanted
- Cant change cameras if I wanted to try different ones