Omnibus f4 v3 problems

Discussion in 'Getting Started' started by Guan, May 15, 2018 at 8:55 PM.

  1. Guan

    Guan Member

    Hi there.
    I have a x220s it kept falling out of the sky for reasons i cant work out i have replaced one of the motors and i had to resolder the black cable going to the camera as it ir accidentally came unsoldered wholst taking it apart Now when i power up i only get 3 beeps. Im not sure what that means and i cant get the motors to work although i do still get osd on the goggles. Also when i plug directly into the usb now it wont connect to betaflight. There is no light on the flight controller now. I'm assuming i bust the flight controller when soldering or something. Is this the most likely cause. Any help would be massively appreciated as im lost for ideas on how to proceed. Thanks in advance
     
  2. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    Try different com port. Sometimes mine swap after using blheli. If still nothing then its probably dead. Is the USB OK.
    Before I chuck a fcb I always try a uart with an ftdi chip & see if that works.. Just a lose ground wire shouldn't short anything. My advice for newbs is stick with the cheapest F3 till your boards are lasting a few months. Just don't buy a naze.
     
  3. Guan

    Guan Member

    Hi thanks for responding.
    Nothing happens when i plug it into usb. Betaflight no longer opens. No lights turn on the flight controller itself. The light on receiver turns on and flashes red .I only get 3 beeps without the long beeps when i plug it into the lipo though that suggests the 4in1esc is ok apparently. The led on the arms light up also when plugged into a lipo Im a but stuck
     
  4. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    It does sound dead, RIP sorry.
    Bummer as I got boards that are 2years old with some heavy crashes.
    Certain parts I do coat with silicone.
    Your board didn't sound to good anyway.
    Maybe antenna placement
     
  5. Guan

    Guan Member

    Thabks again :).There is so much to learn. I feel anything i have tried to fix I've made worse. If anyone in the uk is willing to help me out. I'd be happy to pay just so i can get to grips with the building and fixing. I dont know anyone else who flys.
     
  6. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    Where abouts are you in this godforsaken island:D
     
  7. Guan

    Guan Member

    I'm in Aylesbury. It's between milton keynes and london. You?
     
  8. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    Wirral, just a ferry across the Mersey.
    Bit far but any help I can give on here.
    I can get round most setup questions on a self made. But I don't do GPS there is other ppl on here for all that. They chime in, in the end.
    Are you sure you put the ground back on the same pinout. A ground on the wrong pinout should not kill the board but what can is leaving the iron on a pad to long or putting that ground on a 5v pin.
    Everytime I buy a new component I download the Pdf or whatever diagram I can then have a look on YouTube to see if any problems arose for ppl.
    I would suggest buying the cheapest F3 you can get except naze for your first year. The chip has been swapped to an F3 but the gyro is still the old mpu6050.
    And that breaks really easy.
    Except for the 7 yes 7 naze32 I went through in my first year I have touched lucky with the SPR F3. Apart from the cc3d or KK, naze32 was all that was on offer & everyone was raving about em.
    To my recollection I think the copper trace in the boards for the motor pins are too thin & cracked if too much heat was applied or for to long. As this was my problem. Thinking it was a iffy motor or esc. Then someone mentioned ground wires take a bit longer to heat up than wires that carry voltage & I also changed from a 60w iron down to a 18-20w @ my iron no longer touches the fcb pdb or esc I heat the tinned wire which then spreads down. The wire is then pushed through upto the silicone & the excess trimmed off
    IMG_20180520_182726339_crop_565x217.jpg
    You need to double & triple check your wiring. Polarity is everything ,if not it's going to cost you.
    You said it was working intermittently on the maiden & after. This could be somthing to do with antenna placement or throttle range & esc protocol.
    A few esc's are Dshot ready but with multishot loaded. Or they don't change it in configuration tab to what protocol is being used.
     
  9. Guan

    Guan Member

    I had a really a old soldering iron without temp control and i think i must have fried it. It was the first time i had tried soldering in about 20 years. I had taken photos of the inside preemptively incase any breakage and soldered the wires back where the came from and everything worked fine. Then i crashed and broke an arm. The place i bought it from sent me a whole new frame it was supposed to carbon fibre but it wasn't. The new frame wzs but it was the original x220 frame and the arms are a differnt size but they fit so i replaced all the arms but damaged a motor trying to unscrew it as the thred had worn out and when i plugged in usb it waz clear that motor was broken as it was only spinning in quarter turns unlike the rest of them so i replaced that and thats when i some of my dodgy soldering had came undone and thats when i fried the board. I guess that why im apprehensive as all the money i have spent just seems to be going down a black hole of my onw uselessness when it comes to fixing audcopters. I have a new soldering iron coming today with a pencil tip With temp controll. I'll try my best to follow your advice. Is it ok to post pictures up here to show you if i get stuck?
    Thank you so much for the help so far
     
  10. mozquito1

    mozquito1 Well-Known Member

    Yeah, pictures offer a better explanation.
    Post away. Even with my 18watt I don't have to touch for more than 2 seconds.
    No temp control. In fact apart from the first tin my iron doesn't touch the boards.
    Take your time & don't buy expensive components either for your first few builds. Frame & Lipo's are the only thing worth forking out for at first.
    Either bite the bullet & get a frame with a lifetime guarantee or buy cheap easy replacements & transferable to another frame.
     

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